1986 : May: Following a slow transfer of executive duties to Dunhill management, Aghion and Lenoir retire. June: New York offices open. Sior Pendle named chairman. August: Venezuelan-born Carlos Rodriguez takes over from O’Brien, who exits.

Philo became something of a Pied Piper, leading the way for legions of young women who followed her towering platforms and thigh boots. “She is definitely driving the whole contemporary market,” the West Hollywood boutique owner Tracey Ross told Time in 2005. “They’re all looking to her.” Slung over fans’ shoulders were her hit handbags—the Bracelet, the Paddington, and Silverado. Those not lucky enough to get their hands on one waited anxiously by their cellphones, hoping to be blessed by the Chloé wait-list fairy. Philo’s bags and floaty dresses were imitated by mass retailers up and down Main Street. Trailing a parade of cult-y best-sellers in her wake, Philo bowed out in 2006 to concentrate on her growing family.